Barsana Bhog: The legendary Holi celebrations of Braj
In the iconic town of Barsana, a legendary celebration of Holi continues to bring vibrant colours into the 21st century. Idris Ahmed shares some of his best photos of the ‘Barsana Bhog’ in recent years.
Braj is world-famous for its startlingly vibrant celebrations of Holi. With the world around us marching ceaselessly towards modernization, this event is a slice of tradition; a short while where it seems that time itself is standing still.
Atop a hill in Barsana is the Radha-Rani temple dedicated to Radha, who is endearingly referred to as Ladleeji by the locals. The temple is packed with devotees from all over Braj and men from Barsana, most of whom are in sakhivesh, and are eagerly awaiting for the impersonating Krishnas from Nandgaon. Meanwhile, the men from Nandgaon after taking a dip in Peeli Pokhar (a small pond on the outskirts of Barsana) and, dressed in white dhoti and kurtas, are busy getting their head gears tied. Most of the younger men can be seen queuing up near the elders to get their turbans tied. The elders have years of experience of taking the blows of the well-oiled lathis of the Radhas of Barsana, and they do a very secure job of tying these turbans. All dressed and ready with shining & colorful dhals (shields) and chanting ‘radha-rani ki jai’, they start running towards the Radha-Rani temple.
Braj is world-famous for its startlingly vibrant celebrations of Holi. With the world around us marching ceaselessly towards modernization, this event is a slice of tradition; a short while where it seems that time itself is standing still.
The women folk of the village who have been sitting ready with matkas filled with coloured water on their rooftops pour them all over the Krishnas of Nandgaon. Drenched, they reach the temple, and are welcomed by the temple priest and the Barsana men.
The men from both the villages then sit opposite each other in what is popularly known as samaj and start singing verses in braj bhasha, ensuing in lighthearted banter. Soon this place turns into an absolute visual delight as literally sacks full of gulal are thrown on these men. A red one is thrown and they all turn red, followed by a green, and they all turn green and one after the other you are witness to a crazy mélange of colors. Through the colour-filled air the silhouettes of men singing to each other can be seen. It is as atmospheric as it can get.
The action after this moves to the narrow alleys of Barsana where the impersonating Radhas, veiled in their best sarees wait with their lathis to beat up the notorious Krishna and his friends – who very willingly & lovingly sit to get the blows, defending themselves with their shields. The rooftops are all filled with people wanting to witness the Nandgaon men being bashed!
This is the bhog – true enjoyment – of Holi in Barsana.
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Armed with a camera and an eye for the interesting, Idris Ahmed shoots photographs across genres. Along with his work as a professional photographer, he teaches photography courses and workshops at various institutes, conducts photo-expeditions and runs Photocommune, a collective of photography enthusiasts. You can check out his work at http://idrisphotography.com/ or follow him on instagram at: @idrisphotography